Home Construction Sequence...
Successful home construction is dependent upon many differing factors. The sequence of construction is just one of these factors. The book devotes many chapters to the requirements of each sequence and fully explains how to accomplish each sequence. Below is a condensed sequence of home construction extracted from the book.
1. Wall Cell
2. Mortar First
Another consideration for this first row is accurate block height. Because most foundations are not completely level, determination must be made so that the first row of blocks have differing mortar thickness which results in that first row of blocks being level. A level first row of blocks will result in dry-stacked walls that are straight and plumb.
Last but not least, that first row of blocks must be straight and have properly placed corner blocks and inspection blocks. Inspection blocks have one cell side cutout so the inspector can confirm rebar in the cell before that cell is poured full of concrete.
that Row Segment
Dry-stacking the Walls
This is just like conventional mortar block laying. You stack the corners up a few rows high (I stack six rows high), making sure that the corners remain plumb in both directions from the corner. Then stretch a mason's string between the corners and dry-stack your blocks along this string to close that wall row near the middle of that wall segment. Then move the string up one row and repeat the process. You must brace the walls to prevent them from tipping over. Improper bracing can be very dangerous. Bracing details for home construction is discussed in the book and the DVD.
Pour Wall Cells
8. Form &
& part of the Bondbeam
While pouring the headers with concrete, extend into the adjacent lintel blocks at least one-half block length. This will lock those lintel blocks into place, and provide overlap when the rest of the bond-beam is poured. Be sure to insert the truss tie-down straps at the locations marked above, while pouring the headers.
Pour the Bond-beam
Bond the Walls
Once you determine the desired consistency, then add that amount of water into the mixer each time, before adding the SBC from the bag. This will give you consistent results and the mix should remain smooth and not get lumpy. The book explains in much great detail.
When you spray the wall, you obviously need a sprayer. This page contains plans for such a sprayer. You could also purchase a sprayer by searching on the Internet. After spraying the wall, the next step is to trowel that section of the wall flat and smooth. I use a rectangular trowel with a fat handle. The fat handle is important because it causes less strain while controlling the trowel.
Always have the advancing edge of the trowel higher than the trailing edge. If you forget to lift the advancing edge, it will dig in and cause a gouge which you must now fix. After some practice you will be able to switch trowel direction and not cause a gouge. Because these skills have to be developed through practice, I suggest that you start in an area which will be covered at a later time.
Once the wall is troweled smooth and flat, then you can add any pattern you desire to the wall texture. As specified on the back of the SBC bag, you should keep the wall wetted for a period of several days. This will lengthen the SBC cure time, and will help to increase the fully cured SBC strength and water-proof characteristics. For several months the SBC will get darker when rained upon. This indicates that it is not yet fully cured. When it is fully cured, it will get wet and not get so dark.
This has been a summary of building all the house walls. Each step requires concern and skilled effort if you want professional results. It is well worth the effort when the walls are completed. Remember, these walls will be maintenance free and last a lifetime. No damaged siding, no peeling paint, and scratches (very difficult to make) are colored to a depth of 1/8" so a mild scratch doesn't change color and doesn't penetrate the water tight integrity.